Ghosts, Ghouls & Castles | Halloween In Edinburgh

Edinburgh at Halloween feels like a city leaning into its darkest stories. Ancient cobbled streets echo with legends, candlelit graveyards whisper of restless souls, and towering castles loom over it all like silent guardians of the past. For our first-ever visit to Scotland’s capital, we arrived at the perfect time—ready to embrace ghosts, ghouls, history, and a weekend wrapped in atmosphere, mystery, and unmistakable autumn magic.

Journey North Doncaster To Edinburgh

We were very excited for this Halloween weekend break, as none of us had visited Edinburgh before. We caught the train from Doncaster at around 11:10 AM, bound for Haymarket Station in Edinburgh. Thanks to rail works between our usual station at Retford and Doncaster, this was the only practical way to start our trip.

We left the car in the multi-storey car park at the Frenchgate Shopping Centre, where there’s a dedicated level for rail users. With CCTV throughout, it felt secure and hassle-free—exactly what you want before a long journey.

After parking, we wandered down to the platform and grabbed a much-needed Costa coffee. Once on board, we settled into our seats with a few ready-mixed cocktails and a generous selection of snacks—our little ritual for easing into travel mode.

We had been expecting a smooth 3.5-hour journey, but shortly after departure we were told that an accident was blocking the tracks ahead. We were instructed to leave our train, navigate to another part of the station, and board a different service. The delay was estimated at around 1.5 hours, and it quickly became clear that this journey wasn’t going to be as straightforward as we’d hoped. Eventually, though, things began moving again and, much later than planned, we finally rolled into Haymarket Station.

After a brisk 30-minute walk through the streets of Edinburgh, we found ourselves standing in front of our hotel, ready to settle in for our weekend stay.

A Historic Home Away From Home

When I was searching for accommodation, it was important to find somewhere with a traditional, formal character—something that reflected the historic charm of Edinburgh itself. We wanted our hotel to feel in harmony with the city’s old-world architecture and timeless atmosphere. The Hapimag Stadtresidenz ticked every box. Its classic style and elegant interior made it the perfect match for the kind of stay we had imagined. Although it isn’t a cheap option by any stretch, it was absolutely ideal for us and made the perfect base for our first experience of Edinburgh.

Click here for our thoughts and review of the Hapimag Stadtresidenz Hotel

After settling in and unpacking, we jumped in for a quick shower and got ready for dinner and drinks at Brewhemia, where I had booked a table for their Halloween-themed evening.

Unfortunately, the 4:00 AM wake-up call and the disrupted journey had taken their toll. We managed three rounds of drinks and enjoyed a lovely meal, but exhaustion eventually won. We ordered an Uber back to the hotel and happily embraced an early, much-needed night’s rest.

Exploring Edinburgh By Day

Breakfast in West Port

The morning began with a full Scottish breakfast at the excellent Coffee Mill Café in West Port—a hearty and comforting start to the day. We had a 9:30 AM tour booked at Edinburgh Castle, so once we’d cleared our plates and finished our coffees, we set off on a steady walk toward the castle. The autumn air was crisp, the streets already beginning to buzz with early visitors, and before long we found ourselves taking our place in the queue at one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks.

Click here for The Haunted Edinburgh Castle Story

Castle Views and Cobblestones

After exploring the castle and taking in its incredible views and history, we made our way down the winding cobblestones to the famous Victoria Street. With its vibrant façades, quirky bookstores, and independent boutiques tucked into every corner, it’s the sort of place where you can easily lose track of time. We wandered in and out of shops selling everything from handmade crafts to Harry Potter memorabilia, pausing often just to admire the street’s unique curve and postcard-perfect colours.

Coffee Break in Grassmarket

Eventually, after soaking up as much charm as we could, we continued toward Grassmarket, where we found a cosy little café and settled in with coffee and hot chocolate. It was the perfect way to warm up and rest our feet before continuing the day’s adventures.

In the afternoon we continued with more sightseeing, in particular the famous Royal Mile. Stretching from the heights of Edinburgh Castle down to the regal gates of Holyrood Palace, the Royal Mile is the beating heart of the city’s Old Town—a historic spine lined with centuries of stories. Walking its length feels like stepping into a living museum, where medieval closes, towering tenements, and ancient stonework sit shoulder-to-shoulder with vibrant modern life. The sound of bagpipes often drifts through the air, blending seamlessly with the chatter of tourists and street performers.

As we strolled along, every section of the Royal Mile had its own atmosphere. The Lawnmarket offers traditional shops and dramatic views up toward the castle; the High Street is alive with buskers, tartan-filled windows, and the imposing presence of St. Giles’ Cathedral; and the Canongate reveals a quieter, more reflective side, with historic landmarks tucked just off the main path. It’s the kind of street where you can duck into an alleyway and discover a hidden courtyard or centuries-old building you never expected.

What makes the Royal Mile so captivating is its blend of culture, commerce, and character. One minute you’re viewing 50-year-old whisky in a cosy shop, and moments later you’re admiring local artisans crafting jewellery or leatherwork. The Royal Mile invites you to slow down, explore, and let the layers of Edinburgh’s past and present unfold around you.

A Night Of Ghosts And Legends

Greyfriars Kirkyard

As night settled over Edinburgh, we made our way back toward our meeting point on the Royal Mile for something a little different—after all, it was Halloween. We had booked a fully guided ghost tour through the city’s famously haunted streets. The temperature dropped quickly, streetlights flickered on, and the ancient stone buildings cast long shadows across the cobbles. It felt like the perfect setting to dive into the darker side of Edinburgh’s history. Our guide arrived with a lantern in hand, instantly setting the mood before we’d even taken a single step.

The tour began on the Royal Mile, where our guide painted vivid pictures of life in medieval Edinburgh—stories of plague, superstition, and mysterious disappearances that had taken place in the very streets we were walking. As we passed narrow closes and stairways plunging into darkness, the guide would pause, lower their voice, and recount tales of spirits said to linger there. Even in a group of tourists, it was hard not to glance over your shoulder now and then.

As we continued deeper into the Old Town, the stories grew increasingly chilling. We heard about infamous criminals, eerie legends, and restless souls tied to the city’s past. Our guide had an uncanny way of blending historical fact with suspense; one moment we were laughing at a quirky anecdote, and the next we were learning about unexplained footsteps, cold spots, and apparitions caught by unsuspecting visitors. The contrast made every corner feel unpredictable and thrilling.

The highlight came when we entered Greyfriars Kirkyard, an experience that truly brought the stories to life. The air was noticeably colder, the churchyard dimly lit, and the atmosphere heavy with centuries of history. Our guide shared chilling accounts of reported sightings in specific areas, each with its own tragic or unsettling tale. Standing there among the gravestones, it was impossible not to feel the weight of the past pressing in.

Click Here For The Greyfriars Kirkyard Ghost Story

Click Here For The Story Of Greyfriars Bobby

Dinner Plans Gone Awry

When the tour wrapped up, the city felt different—more mysterious, more alive in its own ghostly way. Walking back through the dimly lit streets toward our dinner reservation, we replayed some of the tales in our heads. Our plan was to finish the night with an unforgettable meal at Duck & Waffle, a spot we’d been eagerly anticipating. Unfortunately, the experience fell far short of expectations. From the moment we started eating, tiny flies kept landing on our food, making it impossible to enjoy. After multiple attempts to carry on, we reluctantly asked for the bill and left. Although I paid at the time to avoid causing a scene, I later complained and received a full refund. It was a disappointing end to what was supposed to be the highlight meal of our weekend and the last night in Edinburgh—but the ghost tour itself had more than made up for it, leaving us with memories we won’t soon forget.

Farewell To Edinburgh

Final Breakfast and Walks

It was time to say goodbye to our stunning hotel and the beautifully historic décor of our room. After packing up and checking out, we headed straight to Grassmarket in search of breakfast. Two full Scottish breakfasts and a pair of strong coffees later, we felt ready to make the most of our final hours in the city. There’s something about a hearty breakfast in Edinburgh that feels both comforting and energising—just the boost we needed for a day of exploring.

Princes Street Gardens & Last Snapshots

Our first stop was Greyfriars Kirkyard, bathed in soft morning light. Wandering among the gravestones and soaking in the history of this fascinating place felt very different in the daytime, yet no less atmospheric. From there, we made our way to Princes Street Gardens, where the iconic fountain sits framed by the dramatic backdrop of Edinburgh Castle. Along the way, we were treated to an impromptu performance by a bagpiper, filling the air with that unmistakable sound of Scotland, and we couldn’t resist pausing to snap a picture of a striking bronze elephant sculpture in the park.

Shops, Coffee, and Christmas Magic

With the sightseeing done, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the city’s shops, stopping for one last coffee and taking in the charming streets. There’s a wonderful sense of life and energy in Edinburgh, even on a quieter morning, and we took our time, soaking it all in before making our way back toward Waverley Train Station. Every corner seemed to offer something new—an intricate doorway, a cosy café, or a shop window that could have been straight out of a storybook.

As we walked, it was impossible not to notice how Edinburgh was beginning to transform for Christmas. The streets were already sprinkled with twinkling lights, and the buildings were beautifully dressed for the season. It was a magical final impression of the city, a perfect blend of history, culture, and festive charm. With memories of castle views, cobbled streets, and hidden treasures tucked firmly in our hearts, we reluctantly boarded our train, already planning our next return to this unforgettable city.